Interview with Julie Massé, nose and perfumer
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10.05.2023
A very nearby Orient
At Senteurs D’Ailleurs, a wind from the East is blowing over the fragrances. The warm, amber, almost animal tones of Oud wood are infinitely sensual because they blur the lines.
Women used to wearing a perfume with oriental notes appreciate its opulent, original and mysterious side. And on a man? The ‘leather’ characteristics of oud bring a strong boost and convey an impression of virility, strength, even natural authority. The anti-metrosexual! A man who is protective of women.
Oud wood is without doubt one of the most precious woods in the world. In Arab countries, it is called ‘Oodh’, in India it is called ‘Agarwood’, and some also call it the ‘wood of the Gods’ due to its scarcity, its enchanting fragrance and its medicinal properties.
In these countries, for thousands of years, Oud Wood has also been considered a precious ally for health, beauty and general well-being. It balances energies, regulates sleep disorders, lowers cholesterol and much more. In the form of incense, it is most commonly used for relaxation and meditation. In the time of the Pharaohs, it is also known that the Egyptians used it in their ritual for embalming the bodies of members of the royal dynasty.
As expensive as gold
Oud wood is actually a wood loaded with a dark, fragrant resin that forms in the core of the trunks of certain types of tropical trees that grow in the Orient and the forests of South-East Asia. This extremely rich and fragrant resin is produced as a defence mechanism when the tree is damaged or infected by certain mould-causing fungi. Only one in a hundred trees contains this precious resin. And it is impossible to guess which one. It is this scarcity that makes it one of the most expensive woods in the world. An oil, which is highly sought after in modern perfumery, is extracted from it. Oud wood oil is obtained through a process that distils wood chips. Seventy kilograms of wood chips are necessary to obtain 20 ml of fragrant oil. This is why it sometimes costs more than gold! Some perfumers even claim that Oud is the new ‘black gold’ of perfumery, the quintessential oriental fragrance journey. Just as patchouli was in its time. Fashionable, chic, trendy, it is certainly a favourite ingredient among designers.
Designer perfumes
In the Frédéric Malle Collection, master perfumer Dominique Ropion presents The Night, one of the most Oud-laden perfumes (with up to 25% agarwood oil). Like a love song from the Middle East, equally generous Indian oud and Turkish rose are adorned with saffron, amber, and sandalwood. But the most precious fragrance of all comes from the Maison Jazeel: Ghala, a floral amber for men and women. This persistent, but not excessive, fragrance was created in 2019. The top notes are Oud wood and Turkish rose. Its heart is an accord of incense, ambergris and cedarwood. The base notes are vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, and Indian Agarwood in full majesty. Senteurs D’Ailleurs also offers Oud Immortel by Byredo, Oud Wood by Tom Ford in a sublime bottle reminiscent of Chinese lacquer, and Oud (Satin Mood) by Francis Kurkdjian, which evokes a very nearby Orient. Not forgetting the divine Oud N°27 by Le Labo and the extremely creative Rosewood Superfluide from the Les Eaux Primordiales Collection created by Arnaud Poulain.
Oriental scents
Do you like oriental fragrances? Pablo, head of Haute Parfumerie at Senteurs D’Ailleurs, has selected some for you: Golden Oud by Mizensir Genève; Sahraa by Fragrance du Bois, which so subtly blends rose, grapefruit and Oud wood; Mémoire d’Une Palmeraie N°14 by Fo'Ah. Destination Abu D’Abi! This perfume house was born from the meeting of the olfactory treasures of France and the Middle East. In this collection, N°14 celebrates the legendary Oud wood with the spicy bursts of saffron, sensually veiled by the crimson mystery of Damask rose. A promise of voluptuous seduction, both sweet and intense. And last but not least: Silver Oud by Amouage. The creations of this luxury perfume house are the result of the encounter between the refinement and tradition of the Sultanate of Oman and the innovation of great French perfumers. In other words, when a perfume is raised to the rank of work of art.