28.02.2025

A fragrance just for me!

The art of layering, or how to combine perfumes to create a unique signature. ‘Imagine a fragrance that is uniquely you, a mix of emotions and precious souvenirs,’ says Quentin, consultant in our Haute Parfumerie Boutique. Layering provides you with the magic to become the creator of your own perfume trail.

So, what is layering exactly?

Quentin Mathieu: ‘Layering’ isn’t simply combining different fragrances. It is a subtle blend of nuances and balance, a unique approach in the art of perfumery.

Each overlapping note tells a story. In some cultures, particularly in the Middle East where the love of perfume is very strong, this practice is quite a long-standing one; men and women used to mix several scents and types of perfume without any qualms, to make them last longer on the skin. Patchouli scented oil and a fresher, fleeting fragrance, for example, or frankincense (bakhoor) and a creamy musk, with some ‘layers’ acting as natural stabilisers. 

Here, layering enthusiasts are more inclined to focus on the creativity it offers. And, needless to say, it is far less expensive than having a custom-made scent made by a perfumer. Of course, the leading modern perfume houses tend to view this with some scepticism… It is quite understandable that a nose, who takes a year or two, sometimes even longer, to develop a successful artistic composition, is not keen to see their creation mixed with another.

Can all scents be layered? Do all the major scent ‘families’ go together?

Yes and no. Woody, floral and oriental notes mingle to create bold combinations.

For example, a musky scent can be beautifully combined with a sweet vanilla juice. On the other hand, a very green note (like galbanum) on top of an extremely sweet vanilla doesn’t work at all!

The golden rule is harmony. Successful layering is all about choosing compatible notes. This applies to top notes, middle notes and base notes. Each of these dimensions plays a unique role in how the perfume evolves over the course of the day. Personally, I recommend combining two, possibly three scents, but no more than that … otherwise you could end up with olfactory chaos, unable to smell anything at all. Also, choose complementary rather than opposing scents.

Could you give us a few specific examples of successful layering?

A combination that works very well: the vanilla and woody notes of L’Eau Duelle (Diptyque) offset by the fresh, citrusy accord of Sur L’Herbe (L’artisan Parfumeur). Or how to subvert and enhance a classic while keeping your favourite fragrance.

Two fragrances that also go very well together: Eau de Protection (État Libre d’Orange), a rose chypre, and Iris Cendré (Naomi Goodsir), a smoky floral. The result is a more original, almost ‘Gothic’ scent.

Another successful example: Molecule 0.1 (Excentric Molecules), consisting of the synthetic molecule Iso E Super that lingers on the skin and casts an indefinable aura over the wearer – it’s an ideal ‘base’ for layering! It enhances more discreet tangy fragrances such as Bergamote 22 (Le Labo) or L’Eau d’Hadrien (Annick Goutal).

Another combination that I love: Rien (État Libre d’Orange) and Ambre Russe (Parfum d’Empire). The order that you apply the fragrances is also essential for successful layering. Start with the most intense notes. Then apply the lighter, more delicate scents to bring the whole together. Each layer should complement the other without overpowering it. This guarantees a harmonious, long-lasting effect throughout the day.

Any scents that don’t go together at all?

Two fragrances with a complex formula, which are self-sufficient, like the quite sweet Gioiosa (Pro Fumum Roma), and the much greener Corsica Furiosa (Parfum d’Empire). If you mix them, the result is nothing like either. One ‘cannibalises’ the other. In fact, it’s up to every individual to try out their own combinations to find the ones that suit them best. The results will also vary depending on the chemistry of your skin and the time of day.

Posted in: Parfum